How to bleed the brakes

TOOLS: wrench, an assistant
To bleed the brakes, it is best to remove the wheel of the suspect area. It is possible to avoid this, although I prefer to at least jack it up to get better access. Always use jackstands!!!
First you need to check the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir. Then locate the bleeder on the caliper or wheel cylinder to be bled (if doing the whole system, start with the right rear). The bleeder will look like a small bolt sticking out of the caliper or wheel cylinder that has a hole in the end of it, often having a rubber cap over the hole to prevent clogging with dirt or grease. *Photos 1+2 show the bleeder as a brass colored piece pointing toward the top of the caliper after the rubber cap has been removed.
Have the assistant pump the brakes three times, allowing the pedal to fully ascend before pressing it each time. On the third push, they will maintain pressure while you open the bleeder. Try not to drain it until it stops, maintain some pressure in the system. Close the bleeder and repeat process. When successful you should have a hard pedal, not spongy and not going to the floor. If bleeding the entire system, repeat process until you get no more air at each bleeder before continuing. If no air seems to be present after bleeding several times, move to the next bleeder. If no air seems present at any bleeder, but you still have a spongy or low pedal, you may have a bad master cylinder or other problem.

How To Rebuild Calipers

TOOLS: Jack, Jack stand, lug wrench or impact, wrenches, sandpaper(400-600 Grit), wood block, air compressor and blower.
TIP: Always use jackstands when using a jack to raise a vehicle!!! I have known of too many guys that have been killed for not following this simple rule.
To rebuild calipers you will need to remove them from the vehicle. With the tire off remove the two caliper bolts and the banjo bolt holding the brake hose to the caliper.*Photo 1
With the caliper unbolted, place a block of wood inside the caliper as pictured in *Photo 2.
Apply air pressure to the caliper through the banjo bolt hole, be aware this is going to cause the piston to pop out. *Photo 3
Inspect the piston and caliper for excessive pitting, grooves or scarring. If any of these are present, I would recommend replacing either the piston or the caliper. If none of these are present, remove the rubber seals from the caliper and piston and clean thoroughly, I recommend a strong solvent or degreaser(I use carb cleaner), being sure not to get any on the rubber seals. If some varnish still remains, use 400-600 grit sand paper until you achieve a smooth surface. *Photos 4-7
Inspect seals, replace as needed (usually called a caliper kit), install the oring and outer boot in the caliper. Lube the piston with brake fluid, then carefully slide the piston into the caliper without unseating the boot or oring(the most difficult part of the whole project).
TIP: check pads and rotors before reinstalling the caliper to prevent further issues, if your rotor looks like mine, get it turned or replace it.
Reinstall the caliper. Be sure to bleed the brakes (for process, search my blog for "bleeding brakes") before putting the wheel back on, then pump up the brakes to ensure the caliper is working properly.
Remount the wheel and test drive.
TIP: Always pump the brake pedal before driving a car that has had brake work done to avoid severe damage to the vehicle, persons, and other property!!! And always test drive a vehicle after doing brake work before assuming the job is finished.

How to change a compressor clutch

To change the compressor clutch on a Honda, it is recommended to remove the compressor, however if you do not have the capability or tools to capture and recharge the freon in the system this may be done on the vehicle for some applications.
TIP: Be sure to check that the center of the clutch turns before attempting to replace clutch. If the center does not turn, the compressor is most likely locked up and will need to be replaced as well.
TOOLS: You will need a ratchet, wrenches, snap ring pliers, and possibly a puller.
Compressor removal: Once the system has been evacuated, there are two manifold lines that mount to the compressor, held down by either a nut or bolt per line. The compressor itself is mounted with four horizontal bolts that screw into an accessory bracket.
Clutch removal: Remove the center bolt from the compressor pulley(10mm).*Photo 1
This should allow you to remove the clutch center portion, but not the pulley. *Photo 2
Behind the clutch lies the snap ring that retains the pulley and bearing. *Photo 3
Remove the snap ring and the pulley and bearing should slide off. *Photo 4
Use the puller with a bolt in the center hole if necessary, avoid scarring or mushrooming the shaft at all costs! One or two bolts will hold the wires for the clutch, these will need to be removed as well. With the pulley removed, you should see the snap ring that holds the clutch coil. *Photo 5
Remove this and the coil will slide off.
TIP: If your coil looks as bad as mine does you may need to check surrounding parts for melted plastic before reassembly.
To install just reverse the process. All the new parts should slide together without force. If they do not, check for burs or marring on shaft. Make sure the pulley spins freely after installation, before installing the belt. Test coil engage and disengage after recharging system.